Echo Ignition Coil: No Spark, By Engine

A trimmer, chainsaw or blower that cranks but will not fire sends most people straight to a new spark plug - and that is the right first move, since plugs foul far more often than coils fail. The test that actually separates the two takes two minutes: thread a known-good plug, or a cheap inline spark tester, back into the boot, ground the tester body against bare metal, and pull the starter. A bright blue spark across the gap means the coil is fine and the fault is somewhere else - fuel, the carburetor, or a flooded engine. No spark at all, even with a fresh plug in, means the coil itself has failed.

Coils do not wear out gradually the way plugs foul. They run for years and then stop producing spark outright, usually after heat-cycling through a hot season or sitting with corroded connections over winter. There is no partial failure to watch for - either it sparks or it does not.

Echo's ignition coils split by displacement and engine family, the same pattern that runs through every other electrical part on this site. A coil bought by model name alone is a guess; the number below, matched to your engine, is not.

CS-310 and CS-352 share a parts hub on this site but do not share an ignition coil - the same split that already applies to their carburetors and air filters.

Unlike the primer bulb's clean two-generation split, the SRM-210/225 coil does not resolve into a tidy before/after rule from the listings available: A411000130 and A411000140 both turn up attached to the same model list across multiple sellers, sometimes bundled together as alternates on the same listing. Echo's own parts lookup by serial number is the most reliable way to confirm which one a specific unit shipped with. Without that lookup, go by the number stamped on the coil you are replacing rather than the model name on the shroud.

Before condemning the coil, rule out the parts that fake its symptoms: a flooded engine - pull the plug, and if it is wet, dry things out before testing for spark, see Echo won't start for the full sequence - a cut or shorted kill-switch wire, which grounds the circuit exactly like a bad coil would, and a clogged fuel system that never gets far enough for spark to matter. Only after those are cleared does a failed spark test actually point at the coil.